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Too much relief + low action = squishy guitar. |
Here are a few (OK a whole bunch of) photos from a recent refret on a Martin acoustic guitar that,instead of a wood fingerboard,had one made of Micarta. This material wears very well and with slight modification to my usual style,made for a pleasant refret job. This belongs to a professional musician and as you can see from the fret wear,he gigs five or six times a week! While it played reasonably well,it was getting worse and was starting to play out of tune. The fret wear was the cause of some of the intonation problems,but it was compounded by a poor setup. At some point in the past,someone had removed too much material from the saddle. To compensate for this, the neck had .018" of relief. This creates a bowl between the nut and 14th fret,leaving the guitar playable but kind of rubbery or "squishy" feeling.
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2/32" is too close to the edge. |
The players other complaint was one I get once in a while on Martin guitars (sorry Martin,still love you). On some models they cut the slot for the high E string just 2/32" from the edge of the fingerboard. While many players have no problem with this,some players find the high E falling off the side. Between the worn frets,the low saddle and the widely spaced strings on the nut,it was time to clean house and start over.
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| Here's the fingerboard,buck nekkid! |
The first difference for me on a Micarta fingerboard is,because of it's resistance to wear,I didn't need to true up the board at all.That was a nice time saver. Because of it's uniformity,the fret slots all behaved the same down the board. That's not always the case with wood.
The other difference was my choice of glue. I usually use Original Titebond or hot fresh hide glue. For this job I used cyanoacrylate aka Super Glue. Using glue at all was probably unnecessary but CA's gap filling capability would help improve the tone a bit. When using super glue for fretting,be sure to wear latex gloves and keep a small rag and Acetone around for any squeeze out or other clean up.

I used Stewart MacDonald's "Jaws" tool to press in most of the frets. They make another similar tool for pressing in the frets over the body and while I own this tool,I don't really care for it. For this part I did it the old fashioned way,with a hammer.

After years of using my own home made device,I did recently get myself a"Fret Dolly" from Luthiers Mercantile. This nifty little tool goes inside the guitar and helps support the wood while I'm hammering away up there!
After the frets were in,it was time for a new bone nut and saddle. There are some good choices for nut and saddle material out there but in most cases,my choice is still bone.
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| All better! |
All this guy needed now was some new strings and he was ready for several more years of gigging!